In the Moscow Region, where frequent Atlantic cyclones dominate, not all plants can take root. Due to the specifics of the local climate, some decorative cultures, in particular primroses, do not have time to form buds or freeze out in a protracted cold winter. Therefore, flower growers for open ground prefer winter-hardy and undemanding varieties. We will talk about how and when it is better to plant daffodils in this region, about the features of caring for them and the rules of transplantation.

The best time to plant in the fall

Of all the bulbous primroses, daffodils, along with tulips, are favorably distinguished by their adaptability to changing conditions. When planting, it is not necessary to select a site, guided by the degree of its coverage, the richness of the soil composition, compatibility with predecessors. The main thing is to root the flower in time.

If the daffodil bulb is planted in the spring, it is likely that it will dry out. After all, a stable increase in daytime temperature and often windy weather contribute to the evaporation of moisture from the soil, which is extremely undesirable for the root located in its upper layers. In addition, the flowering of surviving specimens is possible only after a year. Therefore, gardeners in the Moscow Region and Moscow Region, where long winters, early cold and sharp temperature fluctuations often occur, traditionally planted daffodils only in the fall.

Did you know? In Europe, the first to know the existence of daffodils, the British, when in the middle of the XVI century. the plant was presented to one noble nobleman. And today this primrose is valued in the kingdom more than roses.

Landing dates depend on the weather characteristics of the season. It is important to catch up to the first frost, given that onions need up to 25 days to adapt to a new place.Usually in the temperate zones, these works are planned for the end of summer - the beginning of autumn, when the street is no longer hot, but still warm. In the subtropical latitudes, primroses can be planted in October and later. For example, in the conditions of the Krasnodar Territory, flowers planted in late autumn are better established.

The main guideline is the temperature of the soil. Its microclimate should promote the growth of bulbous roots, but prevent the appearance of green shoots. Such conditions are possible when the earth warms up to a maximum of +8 ... + 10 ° C for 2 weeks. Consequently, the optimal planting period for gardens near Moscow is from August 15 to September 15.

Did you know? Despite the tenderness of flowering, daffodils are poisonous. Because of this property, they are feared by harmful insects and herbivores. And florists, creating floral arrangements, must before standing in a bouquet of daffodils, withstand it in water for 24 hours.

When to plant on the lunar calendar

Many flower growers, in order not to miss the necessary preparatory stages and planting dates, coordinate all work on the infield with the lunar calendar.

According to astrological forecasts, in 2020, favorable days for planting bulb flowers are:

• in August - 1, 2, 5–7, 11, 10–13, 15, 16, 22–26, 28, 29;
• in September - 1-3, 6–9, 11–13, 18–25, 29, 30;
• in October - 4, 5, 9, 10, 14, 15, 17, 18, 21–23, 26, 27, 31.

In addition, the calendar recommends that gardeners plan the care of planted plants as follows:

The location of the moon and stars is unfavorable for any work with flowers on such days in the fall:

• September - 1, 4, 5, 14, 15, 26, 27;
• October - 1-3, 16, 24, 25, 28-30;
• November - 7–9, 14, 15, 25, 26.

How to plant a flower

Daffodils are undemanding. However, compliance with elementary agrotechnical rules for their planting will help them develop faster. In addition, with proper care, a culture can bloom up to six months.

Did you know? In cultures of different nations, the daffodil personifies the opposite symbols. For example, the ancient Greeks revered it as a sign of the dead, and the ancient Romans gave yellow primroses to the victors of battle.

Bulb preparation

Only high-quality and fresh planting material is suitable for rooting. Therefore, it is important to sort it out after winter storage, discarding all substandard specimens. The plant’s root system fully determines the further growth of the plant.

Therefore, when planting all the bulbs, it is necessary to pay attention to such aspects of the bulbs:

1. The size. It is not possible to obtain abundant and prolonged flowering from a small immature root. Strong, well-overgrown specimens are preferred. In the new place, they will take root more quickly and will soon bloom. Keep in mind that all undersized varieties of daffodils have small bulbs (up to 3 cm in diameter). And in terry, tubular, and large-crowned species, their diameter should correspond to 4–5 cm.
2. Structure. A full-fledged daffodil bush cannot grow from planting material that is dry, soft, damaged by mold or putrefactive infection. Ideally, it should be dense, with an elastic and dry bottom. If the slightest signs of rot are found in the onion base, such an instance must be discarded.
3. The form. Never blooming specimens have a single top. After flowering, the bulbs become two-peaked or multi-peaked. Remember that their life expectancy lasts no more than 6 years. After that, its inner scales become thinner, losing its meatiness and productivity. For planting, it is recommended to choose instances that are 3-4 years old.

Conditioned planting material must be prepared for further rooting. At this stage, for prophylactic purposes, it is treated with fungicidal solutions (Vitaros, Maxim). If infected areas are found on the bulbs (they may be under external husks on visually healthy specimens), urgent medical measures will be needed.

Important! Be careful: bulbs infected with penicillic rot and fusarium often go on sale. They can be recognized by gray-green sporulation on integumentary scales and grayish slightly deepened spots directly on the pulp itself.

In order not to bring the infection into the garden, it is recommended:

1. Find out the type of disease.
2. Remove damaged areas.
3. Strip the flesh to living tissue.
4. Treat slices with crushed charcoal or powder of any fungicide.
5. Set aside the bulb for 2-3 days to dry and tighten the wound.

Video: How to handle bulbs before planting

Site selection and processing

Long before planting daffodils, preferably in the summer, plan a place under them in the flower garden. It is desirable that this be a well-lit or semi-shady, loamy, drained area with neutral acidity. A slightly acidic environment is acceptable.

If you place the bushes on a sandy substrate, the bulbs are chopped heavily, as a result of which flowering will stop. In addition, the risks of freezing roots in cold winters increase in such a land. These are the only unfavorable conditions for the primrose. In another soil, it will be accepted and will grow well, but the quantity and quality of inflorescences can significantly decrease, compared with specimens growing on loam.

In preparing the seat, the flower bed must be traditionally cleaned of weeds and predecessors, and also dug to the depth of a bayonet-shovel. It will not be superfluous to fertilize the earth with organic substances (humus, rotted manure, compost). Correction of the soil composition is not excluded.

Important! Fresh manure can be introduced into the soil no later than one year before the planting of daffodils.

It is carried out according to the following principles:

1. If the household is placed on sandy loam, cultivated land can be corrected with a mixture of equal parts of humus and clay.
2. It is recommended to dilute heavy clay substrate with sand (20 kg per 1 m²).
3. The amount of humus and manure on each 1 m² of land is calculated at a ratio of 15:20.

Process features

Daffodils do not like excessive deepening when planting, and in the case of a thin upper earth layer they may not overwinter. The size of the landing hole is determined by the size of the bulb and is three of its height. For a large specimen, a landing pit with a depth of about 15–20 cm is required; for a small specimen, 10–15 cm are required.

Important! In regions with a harsh climate, it is recommended for the winter to cover daffodils with a 15-cm layer of mulch from peat, dry foliage, straw or sawdust. As an alternative shelter, lutrasil or spanbond is suitable.

By immersing planting material in the ground, you can vary the flowering time and the rate of propagation of the crop. For example, for early budding and abundant formation of onion “children”, it is recommended to dig in the bulb a little shallower than the set depth. For the later emergence of flowers and the suspension of vegetative processes, the plant is planted a few centimeters deeper than usual.

The landing procedure consists of the following steps:

1. On a pre-prepared site, dig out the landing pits of the appropriate size, observing 20 cm of the distance between them. If you are dealing with "children", the distance between adjacent bushes can be reduced to 7 cm.
2. Coat the bottom of each well with a thin layer of sand to better absorb moisture. Its optimum thickness is 2-3 cm.
3. Place the bulbs down in the dimples and press down lightly. This is done in order to prevent the formation of soil voids.
4. Sprinkle planting material from above with pre-prepared wood ash and half-fill with fertile soil.
5. In a separate container, mix any autumn complex fertilizers and topsoil. The proportion of ingredients should be 2 times less than specified in the manufacturer's instructions.
6. Fill the prepared wells with the prepared mixture to the top and pour plenty of water.

Video: Features of planting and growing daffodils

Plant care

Even novice growers can cope with the cultivation of daffodils. After planting in open ground, the plant needs a sufficient amount of moisture, nutrients and heat. It is characteristic that in the fall all these factors are provided by nature itself. Therefore, a person only needs to control the growth of the flower and, if necessary, adjust the conditions for its development.

By the onset of the first frosts, the bulb should already grow filamentous root shoots. Rainy damp weather stimulates this process. But excessive rainfall is at high risk of putrefactive infections. Therefore, in the prolonged rainy season, in order to protect the landing from getting wet, it is recommended to temporarily cover it with plastic wrap. In dry weather, warning dry soil, it is important to water the flowerbed on time.

Among the mandatory measures, regardless of the weather, in the care of daffodils should be provided for weeding and loosening of the site. After all, the dense earth crust and weeds formed in the upper layers will not allow the sprouts to develop correctly.

When to transplant

In one place, daffodils cannot grow for more than 5 years, even with proper care. This is due to the vegetative propagation of the bulb. The formed "children" require an additional amount of nutritional resources, but find themselves in already depleted land. As a result, the root system of all generations is very small, which is displayed on the quality of bushes, including buds.

Important! It is strictly forbidden to transplant to another place daffodils that are less than 3 years old. Such manipulations greatly deplete the bulb.

The first sign of an emergency transplant is a deterioration in its appearance and flowering. It is better to plan this work in the middle of summer, after the leaves on the bushes turn yellow and lie down.

The process of transplanting daffodils includes:

• excavation of the mother bush;
• tops of crop;
• drying of the underground in a cool dark place (dry cellar);
• analysis of dry bulbs (the children are separated carefully);
• rejection of deformed, sick, damaged and soft planting material;
• disinfection of good bulbs in a strong manganese solution (it is important to keep them in the preparation for about 15 minutes);
• repeated drying at temperatures up to + 25 ° C;
• storage until landing (occurs in late August and lasts until October);
• rooting of bulbs according to the above principle.

You can see daffodils in every compound. Their popularity is based on high stability and undemanding to growth conditions. However, often flower growers, referring to these qualities of the plant, place it in an unfavorable environment and, as a result, do not receive abundant flowering. This situation can be corrected and prevented only by observing the agrotechnical rules for growing bulb crops.